By Karen Russo
I arrive at the beach just as my surf instructor, Jordy, pulls up on his motorcycle. It’s 5:30 a.m, still dark outside, and I can see the moon and stars above the water. I wax my board as Jordy and I look at the waves. The beach is a three-mile stretch of soft white sand and for now, before dawn, it is completely ours.
We paddle out past the white water to the break and Jordy motions for me to sit on my board. We are the only people in the water, which is so unbelievably rare that it feels unreal. I am nervous and my heart is racing. Jordy is joyful, as usual, and just when I think I will have a moment to calm myself, he says to get ready because I’m about to catch the best wave of my life.
It’s shoulder high and breaking right. I’m still learning to read waves, but even I can understand that this one looks perfect. I turn my board towards shore and lay down, and Jordy helps me paddle into it. As I pop up, he says, “Enjoy it.” Then I’m on my way, gliding across the water, with the sun rising over the trees in the distance. Time feels immeasurable, like both a lifetime and a few seconds at once.
I ride the wave all the way to the shore, screaming aloud with happiness to no one but myself. I hop off the board, jump up and down, smiling and waving to my coach, then paddle back out to him as he pumps his hands in the air and cheers.
Surfing, for me, is not always this magical. As a 51-year-old woman learning a new sport, it can be difficult and even scary. On more than a few occasions, I’ve had panic attacks and paddled back to shore. Also, I should add, no one has ever mistaken me for talented. But at this stage of my life, I give very few shits as to what people think of my surfing style. This is the most fun I’ve ever had in my life. The sport has also introduced me to a whole new world of female friends, many of whom I met on a week-long surf retreat in Costa Rica a few years ago.
It was hard for me to decide to go on the trip. I found myself asking if I “deserved” the time away from my husband and son, especially since I was only a beginner surfer. I wondered about investing in a new hobby at my age. Once I got over the guilt of choosing time for myself, I then worried that I was not a strong enough surfer to attend. I knew the waves in Santa Teresa could get big, but trusted in the “All Levels Welcome” messaging from the hosts. I signed up, pleasantly surprised that a friend from New York wanted to join me.
It proved to be inspiring and exciting. I improved my surfing and made new friends, many of whom I still talk to on a regular basis. And I am happy to report that I am not imagining the benefits of learning surfing – or any sport – as an adult. Science backs me up.
“Exercise can encourage social interaction and engagement, which can help to combat the adverse impacts of loneliness and isolation,” explained Dr. Carly Wood, a senior lecturer on Sport, Rehabilitation and Exercise Sciences at the University of Essex, over email.
As someone who grew up playing sports, which I continued during college, I crave this type of play-based social interaction. I’ve realized I miss it more and more as I age.
“Physical activity interventions in local and community settings can help to bring people together, providing social support, increasing community cohesion, and satisfaction,” according to Dr. Wood. Beyond all of that, she added, physical activity is obviously helpful for the aging process.
I grew up in a small, bucolic, land-locked New England town and never knew anyone who surfed. However, I watched a lot of television, especially The Brady Bunch – the double episode when the family goes to Hawaii and Greg wipes out in a surfing competition was likely my first introduction to the sport. I wouldn’t actually try it for another 15 years when, at a beach in Nantucket and at the urging of a friend, I borrowed a board for about 30 minutes under the assumption that I could “just figure it out.” I could not, but I never forgot my desire to learn.
Despite all of my surf lessons, I consider myself to be an “Advanced Beginner Forever.” Perhaps, in a different life, I would have learned to surf when I was much younger, like some of the women I’ve met. But when I was in my 20s, I was working several jobs and had limited vacation time. That period of my life was all about trying to survive financially and not get fired. It just makes these retreats feel all the more special to me now, even if I am three decades older than most of the other guests.
My favorite surfing spots usually have warm water and a view of palm trees, but I’ve surfed in Massachusetts in January and still had a glorious time. Add in a few friends, and the sun on my face, and it beats just about any activity. For me, the best part is that when I surf, I think about nothing other than surfing. It is rare to have a distraction-free existence. And just like Jordy advised, I enjoy every moment of it.